What is Alpha Hydroxy Acid?

1/11/2016

The wold of Aesthetics is rapidly changing. with the increasing demand and indulgence in beauty, the aesthetics profession is growing along with the scientific advances to meet the needs of the growing market. In this blog post I will discuss the benefits and draw backs of one of the most frequently sought after anti-aging skin care treatments and/or ingredients called Alpha Hydroxy Acid.

Where does Alpha Hydroxy Acid Come from?

Alpha Hydroxy Acids or AHAs as they are commonly refereed are types of chemical acids that are typically used to exfoliate the skin and loosen dead cells that build up on the surface on the skin. Common AHAs used by estheticians are glycolic, lactic, mandelic, malic and tartaric acids. Typically, AHAs are chemical componds derived from natural sources, for example the AHA, Lactic Acid, derives from milk. Think of the ancient Romans bathing in milk to keep the skin soft. The reason they were so soft, was because of the natural acidity of the milk.

5 Benefits of Products that contain AHAs

As Alpha Hydroxy Acid is used as an anti-aging exfoliate, by loosening & removing dead cells on skins surface the skin will show the following improvements.

Immediately after use the skin will be smoother and will reflect light more evenly making wrinkles look less deep.
Small lines or wrinkles in the epidermis (outer layer of skin) are significantly lessened and over time the smoothness of the skin improves and fine lines will fade completely.
Daily use of AHAs will speed up cell renewal and this will increase the skin hydration which will help skin appear plump and subtle. Also, the barrier functions of skin improves greatly due to cell renewal and hydration (no chapped skin or open sores)
AHAs help stimulate the productions of new collagen, helping skin appear more firm.
The daily exfoliation will help remove or reduce hyper pigmented dead cell (dark spots & acne scars) giving the skin a clear completion.

Dangers of Using Alpha Hydroxy Acids in your Skin Care Regimen

There are a couple of draw backs to consider when working with Alpha Hydroxy Acids.
If you are pregnant, do not use any form of AHAs. The chemicals penetrate the skin, that is why they work so well; however, because of this they go into the blood stream and can affect a growing fetus. Like with all skincare treatments, there are some that are recommended for long term use to treat a specific recurring skin condition. While others are more aggressive and are best for short term use. Be sure to consult an Esthetician before choosing the type of chemical exfoliate treatment you would like. In fact, if you are working with a good esthetician she/he will likely have the perfect one picked out for your skin type prior to your appointment.

Which Type of Alpha Hydroxy at Home Regiment is right for you?

Now a days, it doesn't seem as I if I can go to any skincare store without seeing some advertisement for AHAs. There are lots of at home options that are less potentate and safer for home use. AHA products are available in creams, lotions, serums, and gels. They are worn on the skin, unlike a professional skin treatment that is washed off by the end of your session.

When choosing a product, be sure to select the product that will work with your skin type. Creams are usually for dry skin, where gels are best for oily or combination skin. Serums can often be used on all skin types. Prior to making a final selections, consult your Esthetician.
You can expect most quality over the counter products containing AHA to have anywhere from 2 to 5% of an Alpha Hydroxy Acid. Some products may contain several types of AHA that make up the total of 5%. Be sure to ask about the acid level. Most professional grade products have an PH of 3.5 and only doctors and estheticians can apply these. Home care products only go as low as 5 to 4.5. This level is much less effective in the short term, but can help keep results in between professional facials.
Some at home cleansers and scrubs have AHAs in them, however, these wash off product are much less effective than the products are are worn on the skin.
Be careful to not "Double Up" on AHA products. Some skincare sets will have an AHA in the cleaners, moisturizer, toner etc. If each has a 2% active ingredient you will actually be using 12% by the end of the day. That much acid in a single day can be too much for the skin.
Do not use products containing AHAs without a Sun Screen. When the skin is exfoliated frequently at any level, the skin must be protected from harmful rays.

Recommended AHA at Home Products

The key to continued success and results with any corrective skin care treatment is Home Care. To get the best results, you have to be using a product that complements the product your esthetician used during the treatment. Your esthetician will recommend what works best for your skin. However it never hurts to do a bit of research on your own.

One of my favorite professional brands is Dermalogica because they have very gentle products and are backed by a lot of research that they share openly. Another product that I really like is the SkinCeuticals line. SkinCeuticals is more expensive but their products have very small molecules and because of that, they penetrate the skin quickly. Both brands offer professional grade potency that is safe for at home use.

Please note, the links above are affiliate links. If you so choose to purchase the suggested brands, I ask that you please do so through my link. It doesn't cost you anything extra to click and purchase products through my links. In fact, it helps me make sure this blog will always be free to access. Please let me know if you have any questions or comments.

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